The Climbing Doctor Podcast

Isabella Castro discusses neuromuscular re-education of the fingers, a method that leverages neuroplasticity to improve grip and finger control in climbers. She shares practical assessment techniques, exercises, and how this approach can prevent injuries and enhance climbing performance. Isabella Castro's Bio Isabella Castro is a third-year Doctor of Physical Therapy student at the University of Southern California. Originally from El Paso, Texas, Bella's interest in physical therapy grew from rock climbing at Hueco Tanks and seeing different injuries and analyzing movement. Through climbing, she developed a strong interest in injury prevention and rehabilitation, which has transferred to care across a variety of populations. During her time at USC, Bella has gained clinical experience in outpatient orthopedics, pediatrics, and acute inpatient care. Through her education, she hopes to use her knowledge of physical therapy to serve her community and help people stay active in the activities that are…

In this episode, Sam Lemminger, a physical therapist specializing in pelvic floor health, discusses the importance of pelvic floor awareness for climbers and everyone interested in body performance. She explains how understanding and connecting with this often-overlooked area can improve climbing performance and overall well-being. Sam Lemminger's Bio Sam Lemminger is a Fort Collins, CO-based physical therapist specializing in treating orthopedic injuries and pelvic health. Sam has additional training in internal pelvic floor assessment and treatment, dry needling, manual therapy, and rehabilitation of rock climbers and CrossFit athletes. Her goals as a physical therapist include helping people of all ability levels optimize their health and fitness and reduce pain to feel their best while pursuing their passions. In addition to clinical care, she is a teaching assistant with the Spine Management division of the Institute of Clinical Excellence. When away from the clinic, Sam loves being active through…

This episode explores the complex relationship between pain, fear, and climbing injuries, featuring Riley Hess, a PT student with personal climbing injury experience. Discover how pain science, central sensitization, and psychological strategies like graded exposure and expectancy violation can help climbers overcome persistent pain and rebuild confidence. Riley Hess's Bio Riley Hess is a recent Doctor of Physical Therapy graduate from MCPHS University who will begin her career working in the acute care setting following licensure. Her passion for movement began outside of the classroom through climbing, where a love for both performance and community sparked an interest in human movement and rehabilitation. Since starting climbing in 2019, Riley has worked in the climbing industry through coaching and has expanded into providing educational talks focused on pain management and injury prevention. Outside of the clinic, Riley enjoys volunteering as a ski patroller and spending as much time in the outdoors as…

In this conversation, Marie-Eve Joanisse discusses the significance of pull-ups for climbers, exploring their biomechanics, variations, and injury prevention strategies. She emphasizes the importance of proper technique, the role of different muscle groups, and how to tailor training to individual needs. The discussion also covers common injuries associated with pull-ups and offers insights into effective training techniques and progressions for climbers of all levels. Marie-Eve Joanisse's Bio Marie-Eve is a physiotherapist based in the Montreal area, in Canada. Being a climber herself for many years, she has been involved at different levels in the climbing community, such as by volunteering in local competitions and working at her university's climbing facility during her studies. Recently graduated, Marie-Eve has begun dedicating part of her clinical practice to climbers at a local gym, and is working hard to expand her knowledge in this field. She now also acts as a sports first responder at climbing…

In this conversation, The Climbing Doctor interviews Stephen Kiraly, a physical therapy student, about shoulder hypermobility, particularly in climbers. They discuss what shoulder hypermobility is, how to assess it, its benefits and drawbacks, and rehabilitation strategies. The conversation emphasizes the importance of education for climbers regarding their shoulder health and provides practical tips for managing hypermobility through exercises and movement techniques. Stephen Kiraly's Bio Stephen Kiraly is a third-year Student Physical Therapist at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Ever since he finally gave in to his friends bugging him to climb, he has not looked back, and climbing has become a central part of his life. Through climbing, he has had amazing experiences and met even more amazing individuals. Outside of climbing, he enjoys trail running, backpacking, biking, soccer, and basically anything outdoors. He is currently interested in staying in the climbing PT world upon graduation in May 2026.…

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Jack Brown discuss the necessity of developing a climbing-specific fitness battery for youth climbers. They explore the metabolic and biomechanical demands of climbing, the importance of assessing injury resilience, and the components of a comprehensive fitness assessment. The discussion includes a detailed breakdown of a two-day testing schedule, focusing on strength, power, and climbing-specific movements, while emphasizing the importance of strength training in preventing injuries and enhancing performance. Jac Brown's Bio Jac Brown is a physical therapist and avid climber, blending a passion for movement with a commitment to helping others stay active. After earning a Doctor of Physical Therapy degree from Saint Joseph's University in Philadelphia, Jac moved to New England, where she began working with youth climbers and supporting local youth climbing teams as a clinical resource. When not on the wall, Jac can be found juggling or geocaching around her neighborhood.…

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Joe Manoles discuss the concepts of motor learning and motor control, particularly in the context of climbing. They explore key terminology, the stages of motor learning, and practical applications for climbers. The discussion also delves into personal challenges faced by climbers, types of practice and feedback, and the importance of understanding individual learning styles. The conversation emphasizes the significance of feedback mechanisms and learning strategies in improving climbing performance. Joe Manoles's Bio Dr. Joe Manoles PT, DPT is a healthcare professional in Bend, Oregon specializing in the treatment, recovery, and performance of climbers and mountain athletes. His care is characterized by his compassion, attention to detail, and dedication to holistic care. He believes strongly in the core pillars of health as a need for all human beings and their direct influence on our experience on Earth. In order to understand the complexity of health systems, Joe…

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. Steve Smith's Bio Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return…

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers. Joshua Foster's Bio Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and…

In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading…

In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process. Kimmy Wiley's Bio Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and…

This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for…

In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a…

In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries. Takeaways Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement. Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring. Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each…

In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of…

In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.…

In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience. Takeaways Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique. Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon. Evan Ingerson's Bio Evan was born and…

Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency Patrick's info and outro Contact Info: IG: @kraftfactory email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers: A history of The Rock Warrior's Way -- how it started and developed to what it is today Mental aspects of injury management with climbing Body awareness and mental flexibility Arno's personal routine for sharpening his mind Coping with stressors in rehab and leveraging senses to live in the moment Arno's general advice and closing thoughts Contact Info: https://warriorsway.com/ IG: @rockwarriorsway

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's favorite drills RR's advice on injury management Outro Robyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team.…

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers: How Tom started and developed his training Developing Lattice Training Tom's experiences with personal injury Common injuries and mistakes Shoulder resiliency and management Tom's go-to exercises for general resiliency and holistic approach Tom's general advice for climbing Outro Contact Info: IG: @tompaulrandall @latticetraining YT: @LatticeTraining Facebook: Lattice

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers: Shoulder injuries and climbing specific rehab Hamstring injuries when rock climbing What do you do to avoid injuries Common climbing errors related to performance How to combine training, techniques, and movement performance Closing thoughts Kris Hampton's Bio: Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts train at a facility near the neighborhood where he grew up. He saved his own money, took a class, and in a short time, was teaching tumbling classes and coaching men's gymnastics. In 1994, Kris found rock climbing, and after a decade as a trad climber, and a short break from climbing, discovered the joy of the gymnastic movement that is sport climbing and bouldering.…

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews world class climbing coach, Dicki Korb -- trainer of Alex Megos and co-author of the best selling climbing book, Gimme Kraft! Watch as Dicki shares his thoughts and methodologies from his 37 years of climbing! This episode covers: Gimme Kraft! and sharing training methods Contemporary training Dicki's go to exercises, warm up tips, and movement practice/preparation Challenges, risks, and considerations with modern competition climbing Finger training, campus boarding, and training errors Changes in coaching since pandemic Dicki's general tips for resiliency Contact Info: webpage: https://cafekraft.de/de email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Tenaya athlete Felipe Camargo on all topics related to injuries. This interview was part of the "Behind the Send" campaign by Tenaya, sharing the stories of those who make the climbing life possible, from route developers, coaches, and physios to mountain guides, mentors, and advocates. This episode covers: Felipe's history of finger injuries and prevention exercises Finger intrinsic strength Finger warm-up strategies for climbing Tips and tricks to keep the fingers strong for climbing Anatomy of the pulleys and pulley protection ring Rehabilitation exercises for pulley injuries The variation behind the side and length of climbers' digits Problem solving the mechanics of Felipe's injuries related to gripping Felipe was born in Ribeiro Preto, Sao Paulo, Brazil, in 1991. He began climbing at the age of 10 in a small, local rock-gym, and only a few years later, at the age of 15, won his first Brazilian Championship, an achievement he repeated 5 times, as he did with the…

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Eric Hörst on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep in to tips to reduce injuries, warm-up routines, shoulder stability training, posterior chain exercises, finger health and maintenance, wrist strength, and a few final thoughts on how to climb injury-free. This episode covers: General tips that help you lower injury risk Describe your own personal climbing warm-up Describe the importance of training the shoulders Go-to Exercises for the shoulders Developing the posterior chain Wrist stability for the fingers Final words and last thoughts Erics Hörst's Bio: Eric Hörst (pronounced "Hurst") is an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40 years. A self-professed "climber for life." Driven by his passion for adventure and challenge, he has established over 400 first ascents and he's still pushing his personal climbing limits at age 53. Eric is also one of the world's most knowledge climbing coaches and…

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Arc'Teryx athlete Jonathan Siegrist about his experience with injuring and rehabilitating his Grade III AC joint rock climbing. This interview occurred in 2020, 5 weeks after Jonathan had a grade III AC sprain. After diligent therapy and several months, Jonathan returned to full strength climbing. He continued to train and shortly after, he sent his most challenging project yet. This episode covers: Taping techniques for AC joint sprain Early range of motion Staying strong early on Blood flow restriction therapy Early strength training Returning to early climbing Late stage strengthening Exercise demonstrations Jonathan Siegrist's Bio: Jonathan is a passionate professional climber and global traveler. He spends his years primarily on the road and overseas, constantly on a mission to develop new areas and pursue the challenge and beauty in hard rock climbing. Since he began his journey with climbing at age 18 he has step by step experimented and refined his methods of…

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Steve Bechtel on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on training mistakes that are common with climbers, training exercises, power exercises for climbing performance, climbing assessments, inside elbow pain, and how to warm up the hands and fingers for climbing. This episode covers: Mistakes and errors that climbers make with training What are your biases of types of exercises that climbers should use to train How important is lower body power for climbing Assessments typically performed on climbers A discussion about Steve's medial epicondylitis Some great analogies on analysis paralysis and overtraining Warming up the hands and fingers Go-to exercises for climber's Steve Bechtel's Bio: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber for more than 30 years, Steve has established over 300 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall free climbs to 25-foot sport routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of…

Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Udo Neumann on all topics related to climbing and injuries! Climbing since 1982, Udo has written multiple books on rock climbing, and has served in roles as both German bouldering coach and advisor to various climbing federations. Take notes, because there is a wealth of information to be had from this climbing legend! This episode covers: Udo's career as a climber, researcher, coach, and federation member Udo's take on warm up routines The visual system in climbing Incorporating standard rehab exercises into intention based climbing Udo's creative process for exercises and exposing climbers to novel movements Udo's tips for staying resilient in climbing Udo Neumann Bio: Udo Neumann is one of the climbing world's most highly respected and sought after Biomechanics, Skill Acquisition, & Motor Control Experts. "Udo Neumann IS bouldering. If all things related to bouldering counted as first ascents—films, books, photography, mixed media—Udo Neumann might just be the most…

In this interview, The Climbing Doctor talks climbing movement with an expert on the subject, John Kettle! John is an experienced coach of over 20 years and is the author of "Rock Climbing Technique." Listen to this episode to learn about John's journey with injuries and how he applies movement to improve climbing performance. This episode covers: John Kettle's battle with finger injury and subsequent management John Kettle's approach to managing his shoulders Further injury history and management Relationship between climbing movement with performance and injury Changing climbing movement behaviors Leveraging tension for improved climbing movement John Kettle's key tips for improving performance John Kettle's Bio: During 20+ years of coaching I've helped thousands improve both in performance and enjoyment; from first trad leads to 8th grade redpoints and V11 boulder problems. ​My love of climbing has seen me gain extensive experience over four decades, including first ascents of trad, sport and ice routes,…